This is a tale of two separate properties, but with one very strong link - and that is the genius of Jean Thevenet.

The two properties are Jean's own Domaine de la Bongran, and vineyards named after his great, great-grandfather, Domaine Emilian Gillet, which Jean has rented since 1988. The first Domaine has been in the family for centuries and extends to 9 hectares, mainly in the hamlet of Quintaine which is recognised as producing the finest grapes in the region. Domaine Emilian Gillet consists of two hectares in Clesse and three and a half hectares in Vire and the viticulture here is exactly the same as for Domaine de la Bongran.

Jean would be the first to tell you that he is not a genius, he is simply making wine as his father would have and his forefathers before him. Respecting the land, the wildlife and the vine is his philosophy, allowing the pure grape juice to evolve into wine gracefully and as naturally as possible.

But we consider that he is both a genius and a man of great courage. While many of the Maconnais produce up to the maximum yield allowed by appellation laws (and, on occasions, in excess of it) Jean Thevenet severely limits the size of his crop, in most years producing just a third of the average. The resulting grapes are concentrated with wonderful sugars and acidity. He also picks late, waiting for the maturity of fully ripened grapes. He admits that many of his neighbours think he is mad as they have often finished picking and have their grapes safely pressed and fermenting before Jean Thevenet even begins his harvest

In certain years a percentage of his grapes at Domaine de la Bongran are partially affected by Botrytis Cineria, the noble rot so highly prized in Sauternes and Barsac. From these grapes he produces his `Cuvee Levroutee' from an old Maconnais word meaning fully ripened fruit. In really exceptional years the mists rolling up from the river Soane so affect the well ripened grapes that Jean is able to produce his `Cuvee Botrytis' - a rich, sweet and luscious Botrytised Chardonnay. He is one of only two Domaines in Burgundy regularly producing Chardonnay of this style, and it is stunning.

Being organic in the vineyards means the working of his vines is very labour intensive. No herbicides are used and the control of weeds is done by tractor. Jean believes that a struggling vine, whose roots are encouraged to go deep for nutrition, produces the best fruit. The use of a tractor ploughing to a depth of 10 cm helps in driving the roots downwards.

There is so much more to tell of Jean Thevenet's thoughts on viticulture and winemaking but really the wines must be tasted to appreciate the genius of this man. We are delighted to be able to import from both Domaine de la Bongran and Domaine Emilian Gillet and to offer our customers some of the finest wines produced in all of Burgundy.